Modelling of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with account of dispersion (Q2855326): Difference between revisions

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+https://doi.org/10.1080/17455030.2010.500702
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+W1976721609
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+Long waves on a beach
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+Evolution of solitary waves and undular bores in shallow-water flows over a gradual slope with bottom friction
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+Nonlinear evolution and runup–rundown of long waves over a sloping beach
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+Steepness and spectrum of a nonlinearly deformed wave on shallow waters
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+Nonlinear waves and solitons on contours and closed surfaces.
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+THE SECOND-ORDER KdV EQUATION AND ITS SOLITON-LIKE SOLUTION
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