Kinematics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach (Q1940570): Difference between revisions

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+https://doi.org/10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.12.004
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+W2110684646
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+Turbulent bores and hydraulic jumps
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+A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part I: model development and analysis
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+A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: boundary conditions and validation
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+A derivation of equations for wave propagation in water of variable depth
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