An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach

DOI10.1017/S0022112003004543MaRDI QIDQ4465386zbMATH OpenOpenAlexFDO

Authors Atle Jensen, Deborah Wood, Geir Pedersen

Publication date 9 June 2004

Published in Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112003004543

zbMATH Keywords

particle image velocimetryscalingviscous damping

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Experimental work for problems pertaining to fluid mechanics (76-05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05)

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(12)

• Introduction to the special issue on breaking waves
• Experimental velocities and accelerations in very steep wave events in deep water
• The swash of solitary waves on a plane beach: flow evolution, bed shear stress and run-up
• Oblique runup of non-breaking solitary waves on an inclined plane
• Analytical solutions for tsunami runup on a plane beach: single waves, N-waves and transient waves
• The run-up of N -waves on sloping beaches
• Experimental investigation of tsunami waves generated by granular collapse into water
• Runup and boundary layers on sloping beaches
• Vortex dynamics for flow over a circular cylinder in proximity to a wall
• The near-shore behaviour of shallow-water waves with localized initial conditions
• Swash flow due to an obliquely incident bore
• Numerical analysis on the generation, propagation and interaction of solitary waves by a harmonic polynomial cell method

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