Wave evolution over a gradual slope with turbulent friction (Q3325282)

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Wave evolution over a gradual slope with turbulent friction
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    Wave evolution over a gradual slope with turbulent friction (English)
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    1983
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    evolution of sinusoidal, solitary, and cnoidal water waves
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    gradual positive slope with friction
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    Adiabatic approximations
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    energy transport equation
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    wave breaking
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