Longshore motion generated on beaches by obliquely incident bores (Q3347464)

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Longshore motion generated on beaches by obliquely incident bores
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    Longshore motion generated on beaches by obliquely incident bores (English)
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    1983
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    shore waves
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    sloping beach
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    turbulent bore fronts
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    shallow water waves augmented by bore conditions
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    two-dimensional equations of motion
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    perturbation methods
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    single bore wave
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    periodic bore waves
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    quadratic bottom friction law
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    comparison with empirical data
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