Diffraction of gravity waves by a barrier reef (Q3928473)

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Diffraction of gravity waves by a barrier reef
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    Diffraction of gravity waves by a barrier reef (English)
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    1981
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    diffraction of long water waves
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    barrier reef
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    shallow lagoon
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    simple depth discontinuity
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    scattering matrix
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    variational approximations
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    resonant amplification of incoming swell
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    matched perturbation expansions
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