Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves

DOI10.1017/CBO9780511628955zbMath0816.76001OpenAlexW1525646248MaRDI QIDQ4308744

Peter A. E. M. Janssen, Susanne Hasselmann, Gerbrand J. Komen, Klaus Hasselmann, Luigi Cavaleri, M. A. Donelan

Publication date: 10 October 1994

Full work available at URL: https://doi.org/10.1017/cbo9780511628955

atmospheric circulation inverse modelling Taylor-Goldstein equation bottom dissipation satellite wave measurements surface wind fields WAM model software package wave hindcasting and forecasting

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Research exposition (monographs, survey articles) pertaining to fluid mechanics (76-02)

Related Items (65)

Numerical modeling of sediment transport applied to coastal morphodynamics ⋮ Simulating wave transmission in the lee of a breakwater in spectral models due to overtopping ⋮ Asymptotic multi-layer analysis of wind over unsteady monochromatic surface waves ⋮ Evolution of weakly nonlinear random directional waves: laboratory experiments and numerical simulations ⋮ Adaptive Haar wavelets for the angular discretisation of spectral wave models ⋮ Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: a laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin ⋮ On some consequences of the canonical transformation in the Hamiltonian theory of water waves ⋮ Statistical approach of modulational instability in the class of derivative nonlinear Schrödinger equations ⋮ Stokes drift ⋮ On the relation between two numerical methods for the computation of random surface gravity waves ⋮ Numerical study on the quantitative error of the Korteweg-de Vries equation for modelling random waves on large scale in shallow water ⋮ Histograms, cumulants, and spectra of mechanical and wind waves in a wind-wave channel ⋮ 4-wave dynamics in kinetic wave turbulence ⋮ Simulated wave-driven ANN model for typhoon waves ⋮ A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling ⋮ Evidence of the critical layer mechanism in growing wind waves ⋮ Wave turbulence and intermittency in directional wave fields ⋮ Scattering of swell by currents ⋮ Apparent singularities of the finite-depth Zakharov equation ⋮ Morphodynamic Modelling in Marine Environments: Model Formulation and Solution Techniques ⋮ Observation of turbulence and intermittency in wave-induced oscillatory flows ⋮ Nonlinear evolution of water waves and their dispersion relation in coastal waters ⋮ Extreme waves, modulational instability and second-order theory: wave flume experiments on irregular waves ⋮ Wave statistics in unimodal and bimodal seas from a second-order model ⋮ Serre-type Equations in Deep Water ⋮ Recurrent solutions of Alber's equation for random water-wave fields ⋮ Can bottom friction suppress ‘freak wave’ formation? ⋮ On the wind-induced growth of slow water waves of finite steepness ⋮ Surface viscous stress over wind-driven waves with intermittent airflow separation ⋮ Design and development of the SLAV-INMIO-CICE coupled model for seasonal prediction and climate research ⋮ Rapid spectral evolution of steep surface wave groups with directional spreading ⋮ Weakly nonlinear statistics of high random waves ⋮ Crest speeds of unsteady surface water waves ⋮ Model of vertical mixing induced by wind waves ⋮ Recurrent solutions of the Alber equation initialized by Joint North Sea Wave Project spectra ⋮ Integrated modelling of sea-state forecasts for safe navigation and operational management in ports: application in the Mediterranean sea ⋮ Nonlinear stability, excitation and soliton solutions in electrified dispersive systems ⋮ Growth and dissipation of wind-forced, deep-water waves ⋮ Large-time evolution of statistical moments of wind–wave fields ⋮ Progress in ocean wave forecasting ⋮ Linear response of Venice storm gates to incident waves ⋮ An integro-differential equation for surface ocean waves with finite depth ⋮ Simulation of viscous flows with undulatory boundaries: II. Coupling with other solvers for two-fluid computations ⋮ Non-linear wave data assimilation with an ANN-type wind-wave model and ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) ⋮ New insight into classical equilibrium solutions of kinetic equations ⋮ Environmental forecasting and turbulence modeling ⋮ The role of wind waves in dynamics of the air-sea interface ⋮ Effects of three-wave interactions in the gravity-capillary range of wind waves ⋮ Upper-ocean Ekman current dynamics: a new perspective ⋮ Role of the basin boundary conditions in gravity wave turbulence ⋮ The equilibrium range cascades of wind-generated waves ⋮ Large-scale vorticity generation by breakers in shallow and deep water ⋮ Solitons, cnoidal waves and nonlinear interactions in shallow-water ocean surface waves ⋮ Wind-induced changes to surface gravity wave shape in deep to intermediate water ⋮ Wind–wave coupling study using LES of wind and phase-resolved simulation of nonlinear waves ⋮ On weakly turbulent scaling of wind sea in simulations of fetch-limited growth ⋮ Quantification and prediction of extreme events in a one-dimensional nonlinear dispersive wave model ⋮ Phase-resolved ocean wave forecast with ensemble-based data assimilation ⋮ A transport equation for flexural-gravity wave propagation under a sea ice cover of variable thickness ⋮ Turbulent and wave kinetic energy budgets in the airflow over wind-generated surface waves ⋮ Long-term time-dependent stochastic modelling of extreme waves ⋮ Kinetic equations in a third-generation spectral wave model ⋮ Nonlinear interaction of wind-driven oblique surface waves and parametric growth of lower frequency modes ⋮ Can edge waves be generated by wind? ⋮ The structure of energy fluxes in wave turbulence

This page was built for publication: Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves