Extreme wave statistics of surface elevation and velocity field of gravity waves over a two-dimensional bathymetry

DOI10.1017/jfm.2022.227zbMath1504.76016OpenAlexW4221076101MaRDI QIDQ5067758

O. Gramstad, Karsten Trulsen, Christopher J. Lawrence

Publication date: 4 April 2022

Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL: https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2022.227

zbMATH Keywords

kurtosisskewnesswave scatteringnon-Gaussian statisticssubmerged barcircular shoallong-crested irregular wavesemicircular step

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Stochastic analysis applied to problems in fluid mechanics (76M35)

Related Items (2)

Freak wave in a two-dimensional directional wavefield with bottom topography change. Part 1. Normal incidence wave ⋮ A new probability density function for the surface elevation in irregular seas

Cites Work

• Development and validation of a non-linear spectral model for water waves over variable depth
• Propagation of 3D nonlinear waves over an elliptical mound with a high-order spectral method
• A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves
• Wave–bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes
• On the statistical properties of inertia and drag forces in nonlinear multi-directional irregular water waves
• On the statistical properties of surface elevation, velocities and accelerations in multi-directional irregular water waves
• Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography

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