Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements
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Publication:5226003
DOI10.1017/JFM.2017.666zbMATH Open1419.86005arXiv1709.06457OpenAlexW3101742919MaRDI QIDQ5226003FDOQ5226003
Publication date: 30 July 2019
Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)
Abstract: The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.
Full work available at URL: https://arxiv.org/abs/1709.06457
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Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05)
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- Title not available (Why is that?)
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Cited In (11)
- The pressure disturbance of a nonlinear internal wave train
- Nonlinear dynamic pressure beneath waves in water of intermediate depth: theory and experiment
- Estimation of excitation forces for wave energy converters control using pressure measurements
- Extreme water-wave profile recovery from pressure measurements at the seabed
- Energy considerations for nonlinear equatorial water waves
- Long-wave approximations in the description of bottom pressure
- General procedure for free-surface recovery from bottom pressure measurements: application to rotational overhanging waves
- Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone
- Modeling shallow water waves
- Adjoint-based high-order spectral method of wave simulation for coastal bathymetry reconstruction
- Reconstructing wave profiles from inundation data
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