On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
From MaRDI portal
Publication:5227028
Abstract: We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. This study focuses on domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Our calculations based on a fully nonlinear boundary element model investigated geometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally recurrent and marginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Maximally steep non-breaking (maximally recurrent) waves are clearly separated from marginally breaking waves by their normalised energy fluxes localized near the crest region. On the surface, this reduces to the local ratio of the energy flux velocity (here the fluid velocity) to the crest point velocity for the tallest wave in the evolving group. This provides a robust threshold parameter for breaking onset for 2D and 3D wave packets propagating in uniform water depths from deep to intermediate. Warning of imminent breaking onset was found to be detected up to a fifth of a carrier wave period prior to a breaking event.
Recommendations
- Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups
- Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves in deep and intermediate depth
- Breaking Waves in Deep and Intermediate Waters
- On the determination of the onset of breaking for modulating surface gravity water waves
- Pressure analysis in nonlinear waves by revisiting the breaking wave onset
Cites work
- scientific article; zbMATH DE number 5856638 (Why is no real title available?)
- scientific article; zbMATH DE number 3575164 (Why is no real title available?)
- A fast method for fully nonlinear water-wave computations
- A fast method for nonlinear three-dimensional free-surface waves
- A fully nonlinear model for three-dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom.
- A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves
- A modified high-order spectral method for wavemaker modeling in a numerical wave tank
- A self‐adaptive co‐ordinate transformation for efficient numerical evaluation of general boundary element integrals
- An efficient model for three-dimensional surface wave simulations. I: Free space problems
- Breaking Waves in Deep and Intermediate Waters
- Breaking-onset, energy and momentum flux in unsteady focused wave packets
- Computations of fully nonlinear three-dimensional wave-wave and wave-body interactions. I: Dynamics of steep three-dimensional waves
- Convergence of a boundary integral method for 3-D water waves.
- Evaluation of a deep-water wave breaking criterion
- Finite element simulation of fully nonlinear interaction between vertical cylinders and steep waves. I: Methodology and numerical procedure. II: Numerical results and validation
- Generalized vortex methods for free-surface flow problems
- Gentle spilling breakers: crest flow-field evolution.
- Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction
- Numerical modeling of extreme rogue waves generated by directional energy focusing
- Numerical modeling of wave breaking induced by fixed or moving boundaries
- Numerical simulation of gravity waves
- Numerical study of three-dimensional overturning waves in shallow water
- On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
- On the determination of the onset of breaking for modulating surface gravity water waves
- On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves
- On the transport of energy in water waves
- Spilling breakers
- Traveling water waves: Spectral continuation methods with parallel implementation
- Variable transformations for nearly singular integrals in the boundary element method
- Wave breaking and the surface velocity field for three-dimensional water waves
- Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups
- Wave-breaking and generic singularities of nonlinear hyperbolic equations
Cited in
(24)- Parameter sensitivity for wave-breaking closures in Boussinesq-type models
- Numerical simulation of deep-water wave breaking using RANS: comparison with experiments
- Crest speeds of unsteady surface water waves
- Berry phases in the reconstructed KdV equation
- Rapid spectral evolution of steep surface wave groups with directional spreading
- A wave-breaking model for the depth-semi-averaged equations
- Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups
- Wave breaking in undular bores with shear flows
- Introduction to the special issue on breaking waves
- Pressure analysis in nonlinear waves by revisiting the breaking wave onset
- A fast high-order boundary element method for nonlinear water waves generation and propagation in large wave basins
- An energetic signature for breaking inception in surface gravity waves
- On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
- Extreme long waves over a varying bathymetry
- Evaluation of an eddy viscosity type wave breaking model for intermediate water depths
- On the breaking inception of unsteady water wave packets evolving in the presence of constant vorticity
- Topics in the theory of wave-breaking
- Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
- Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves in deep and intermediate depth
- Kinematics of fluid particles on the sea surface: Hamiltonian theory
- Field measurement of nonlinear changes to large gravity wave groups
- Numerical and laboratory investigation of breaking of steep two-dimensional waves in deep water
- Low-order Boussinesq models based on coordinate series expansions
- The breaking of interfacial waves at a submerged bathymetric ridge
This page was built for publication: On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
Report a bug (only for logged in users!)Click here to report a bug for this page (MaRDI item Q5227028)
