Steepness and spectrum of a nonlinearly deformed wave on shallow waters
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Abstract: Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave can be expressed through the wave steepness, and this is important for applications.
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- Analytical and numerical study of nonlinear effects at tsunami modeling
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