Understanding the tsunami with a simple model

DOI10.1088/0143-0807/27/4/016MaRDI QIDQ5485623zbMATH OpenOpenAlexWikidataFDO

Authors O. Helene, M. T. Yamashita

Publication date 30 August 2006

Published in European Journal of Physics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL https://arxiv.org/abs/physics/0606225

zbMATH Keywords

discontinuityrefractionshallow water wave equation

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05)

Abstract: In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation that must be satisfied when a wave encounters a discontinuity in the sea depth. A short explanation about how the tsunami hit the west coast of India is given based on the refraction phenomenon. Our procedure also includes a simple numerical calculation suitable for undergraduate students in physics and engineering.

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Cited in

(4)

• The reflection of obliquely incident tsunamis
• The behaviour of tsunamis
• Hydrodynamics of tsunami waves
• Tsunami wave simulation in the presense of a barrier

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