Subharmonic generation of edge waves by nonuniform incident waves (Q1107379): Difference between revisions

In the introduction the authors present a short historical sketch of the ideas concerning the edge waves propagation on a plane beach, pointing our the contribution of the authors. This paper presents the deduction of the asymptotic equations for a plane beach in the nonlinear shallow water theory, considering first-order dispersive effects. The deduced equations are solved approximately by means of the multiple scales method and in this manner some useful consequences are derived concerning the influence of the incident wave train on the edge wave equilibrium amplitude, the influence of the incident wave modulation on the edge waves and finally, the forced initial growth of periodic infinitesimal edge waves.