Unidirectional waves over slowly varying bottom. II: Quasi-homogeneous approximation of distorting waves (Q1269342)
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English | Unidirectional waves over slowly varying bottom. II: Quasi-homogeneous approximation of distorting waves |
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Unidirectional waves over slowly varying bottom. II: Quasi-homogeneous approximation of distorting waves (English)
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7 March 2001
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[For part I see ibid. 18, No. 4, 345-370 (1993; Zbl 0819.76012).] From the summary: We study the distortion of periodic and solitary travelling waves. The distortion is in the first instant approximated by a quasi-homogeneous succession of uniform waves, each one being determined by specifying the horizontal momentum (and hence the amplitude) at the location of the wave. The changing value of the momentum with position is found first from energy conservation. For periodic, cnoidal waves, for which the mass vanishes, the change of wavelength has to taken into account; some numerical results are given.
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solitary travelling waves
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horizontal momentum
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energy conservation
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cnoidal waves
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