Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model (Q3698484)
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scientific article; zbMATH DE number 3924347
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| English | Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model |
scientific article; zbMATH DE number 3924347 |
Statements
Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model (English)
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1985
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non-breaking gravity waves
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linear finite-depth theory
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directional distribution of energy
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Boussinesq-type equations
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sea-surface-elevation skewness
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nonlinear finite-depth theory
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