Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model (Q3698484)

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Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model
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    Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model (English)
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    1985
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    non-breaking gravity waves
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    linear finite-depth theory
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    directional distribution of energy
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    Boussinesq-type equations
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    sea-surface-elevation skewness
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    nonlinear finite-depth theory
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