Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model

DOI10.1017/S0022112085002543MaRDI QIDQ3698484zbMATH OpenOpenAlexFDO

Authors Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza

Publication date 1985

Published in Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112085002543

zbMATH Keywords

Boussinesq-type equationsdirectional distribution of energylinear finite-depth theorynon-breaking gravity wavesnonlinear finite-depth theorysea-surface-elevation skewness

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Basic methods in fluid mechanics (76M99)

Cites work

• Long waves on a beach

Cited in

(3)

• Waves on unsteady currents
• Characteristic-eddy decomposition of turbulence in a channel
• Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

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