Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves

DOI10.1098/RSTA.1984.0019MaRDI QIDQ3693076zbMATH OpenOpenAlexFDO

Authors M. H. Freilich, R. T. Guza

Publication date 1984

Published in Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1984.0019

zbMATH Keywords

Boussinesq's equationscross spectral energy transfersmodal phase modificationsnonlinear modelsshoalingtemporal Fourier modesTriad interactionsunidirectional surface gravity waves

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15)

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Cited in

(22)

• Shoaling of nonlinear wave-groups on water of slowly varying depth
• Field measurements and non linear prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone
• Stochastic evolution equations with localized nonlinear shoaling coefficients
• A nonlinear formulation of radiation stress and applications to cnoidal shoaling
• The role of constant vorticity on weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves
• Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer
• Shoaling of nonlinear steady waves: maximum height and angle of breaking.
• Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach
• Nonlinear Dynamics of Deep-Water Gravity Waves
• Analysis of a class of simplified models for nonlinear gravity wave interactions
• Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra
• Consistent nonlinear stochastic evolution equations for deep to shallow water wave shoaling
• Can edge waves be generated by wind?
• A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach
• Consistent nonlinear deterministic and stochastic wave evolution equations from deep water to the breaking region
• The oblique parabolic equation model for linear and nonlinear wave shoaling
• Unsteady edge waves generated by time-harmonic pressure: exact solutions
• Nonlinear model predictions of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves
• Nonlinear model predictions of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves
• Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone
• Theoretical analysis of surface waves shoaling and breaking on a sloping bottom. II: nonlinear waves
• Bottom pressures in a shallow compressible ocean due to nonlinear wave-non-uniform elastic-seafloor interactions

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