A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach

DOI10.1017/JFM.2022.512MaRDI QIDQ5089796zbMATH OpenOpenAlexFDO

Authors Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Pieter B. Smit, R. T. Guza

Publication date 15 July 2022

Published in Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Copyright license Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International

Full work available at URL https://arxiv.org/abs/2110.10990

zbMATH Keywords

wave breakingnonlinear shallow water equationswind-wave interactionsurface gravity wavesuperharmonic frequencynonlinear non-dispersive energy balance

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Meteorology and atmospheric physics (86A10)

Recommendations

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• High-Frequency Asymptotics of Edge Waves on a Beach of Nonconstant Slope

Cites work

• scientific article; zbMATH DE number 3129058 (Why is no real title available?)
• A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model
• A staggered conservative scheme for every Froude number in rapidly varied shallow water flows
• Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups
• Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach
• Long waves induced by short-wave groups over an uneven bottom
• Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach
• Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves
• Nonlinear model predictions of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves
• On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 1. The elementary interactions
• On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory
• Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach.
• Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra
• Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer

Cited in

(3)

• Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups
• Unified analytical solution for group-induced infragravity waves based on Green's function
• Investigation of the generation of infra-gravity waves

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