Ocean Waves
asymptotic distributions of largest waves and ocean statesbreaking criteriabreaking of wavesdirectional energy spreading functionGaussian random processGram-Charlies series distributionintegral transformsnon-Gaussian wavesprobabilistic prediction of wind-generated random wavesspectral analysisStokes waveswave amplitudeswave heightswave spectra
Historically, stochastic properties of random ocean waves were recognized in the early 1950s, and considerable progress has been made on stochastic analysis of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century. At the present time, stochastic analysis and probabilistic prediction of wind-generated ocean waves are actively used in research into the ocean dynamics and in marine engineering. The author himself made some contribution to the subject, and his active interest has naturally influenced the selection of topics covered in this book. The book essentially deals with recent developments of stochastic analysis and probabilistic prediction of wind-generated random ocean waves. It gives a basic introduction to the theory and applications of ocean waves to naval architecture, ocean and coastal engineering. The prerequisites of this book include probability, stochastic processes, and some integral transforms. This book has nine chapters and three appendices. The opening chapter deals with a brief description of random oceans, ocean waves as a Gaussian random process, and with probabilistic prediction of wave characteristics. Chapter 2 is devoted to spectral analysis of random waves, characteristics of wave spectra, wave spectral formulations and higher-order spectral analysis. In Chapter 3, stochastic properties and probability distributions of wave amplitudes and wave heights under various conditions are discussed in detail. Included also is the statistical analysis of wave amplitudes and wave heights from wave records, without carrying out spectral analysis. Chapter 4 treats the joint probability distributions of combined wave heights (or amplitudes) and wave periods. Statistical information on wave heights and on the directions of travel of incident random waves is also given in this interesting chapter which contains some new mathematical results. Chapter 5, a continuation of chapter 4, deals with probability distribution of significant wave heights and periods and with statistical data for sea severity, and discusses wave spectra and wave heights on hurricane-generated ocean surface. In chapter 6, estimations of extreme wave height and state of oceans are discussed with special reference to asymptotic distributions of largest waves and ocean states. Chapter 7 describes directional characteristics of random oceans, focussing on the evaluation of directional wave spectra, analysis of directional energy spreading function, and estimation of directional energy spreading from actual data. The author also includes a summary of several wave energy spreading functions. In chapter 8, phenomena of breaking of waves in oceans and ocean beaches are discussed with emphasis laid on the breaking criteria, probability of occurrence of breaking, and energy loss resulting from wave breaking. Special attention is given to group waves and freak waves. The final chapter 9 is devoted to the probability distribution of non-Gaussian waves in an ocean of finite depth, to the Gram-Charlies series distribution, to distributions based on Stokes waves, and to distributions based on nonlinear systems such as the heaving motion of a tension-leg platform in a seaway. This is followed by a discussion of the probability distribution of peaks and troughs and by a transformation of Gaussian to non-Gaussian waves. Three brief appendices dealing with fundamentals of probability and stochastic processes and with Fourier and Hankel transforms are added to make the book self-contained. A large number of references is cited for stimulating further study and research on this important subject. The book gives a good introduction to stochastic and probabilistic analysis of random ocean waves and contains examples of practical applications to the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Nevertheless, it would be very difficult to teach a graduate level course by using this book due to lack of exercises. But the book would be useful to advanced graduate students and researchers working in the title subject.
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- A novel method for predicting the power outputs of wave energy converters
- Ocean wave autocorrelation function
- Reflection and transmission of regular water waves by a thin, floating plate
- Characterizing JONSWAP rogue waves and their statistics via inverse spectral data
- Evaluation of an eddy viscosity type wave breaking model for intermediate water depths
- Long-term time-dependent stochastic modelling of extreme waves
- Quadratic forms of the empirical processes for the two-sample problem for functional data
- Experimental velocities and accelerations in very steep wave events in deep water
- Melnikov analysis and inverse spectral analysis of rogue waves in deep water
- Wave statistics in unimodal and bimodal seas from a second-order model
- Weak or strong nonlinearity: the vital issue
- Random seas and design of maritime structures.
- Role of the basin boundary conditions in gravity wave turbulence
- Attenuation and directional spreading of ocean wave spectra in the marginal ice zone
- Frequency spectra evolution of two-dimensional focusing wave groups in finite depth water
- Freak waves in weakly nonlinear unidirectional wave trains over a sloping bottom in shallow water
- Numerical stochastic models of sea surface undulation and extreme ocean waves
- On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field
- Directional Spectra-Based Clustering for Visualizing Patterns of Ocean Waves and Winds
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- Improved joint probability distribution for ocean wave heights and periods
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- Bayesian hierarchical space-time models with application to significant wave height
- Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry
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- Karhunen-Loève representation of stochastic ocean waves
- Geometrical characteristics of Gaussian sea waves
- Estimation and clustering of directional wave spectra
- A method to study interactions between narrow-banded random waves and multi-chamber perforated structures
- Parametrization of sea surface skewness and kurtosis with application to crest distributions
- Time series clustering using the total variation distance with applications in oceanography
- A continuous non-ergodic theory for the wave set-up
- Propagation of underwater wave groups in a compressible ocean coupled with an elastic seafloor
- Effect of shoaling length on rogue wave occurrence
- Efficient numerical approximations for a nonconservative nonlinear Schrödinger equation appearing in wind-forced ocean waves
- Noncausal multi-objective nonlinear control for a hybrid floating offshore wind-wave platform
- The hierarchical spectral merger algorithm: a new time series clustering procedure
- A second-order-in-time scheme for the von Neumann equation with singular self-interaction and simulation of the onset of instability
- On unpredictable ship rolling in irregular seas
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