The initial value problem on a plane beach

DOI10.1093/QJMAM/54.3.389MaRDI QIDQ2743620zbMATH OpenOpenAlexFDO

Authors U. Ehrenmark, G. Body

Publication date 15 September 2003

Published in Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL https://doi.org/10.1093/qjmam/54.3.389

zbMATH Keywords

asymptotic representationsfluctuating surface pressureinviscid incompressible fluidlarge timeslinearized hydrostatic theorynon-hydrostatic theoryplane beachsmall timestwo-dimensional initial value problemUrsell edge-wave mode

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Asymptotic methods, singular perturbations applied to problems in fluid mechanics (76M45) Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05)

Review text

The two-dimensional initial value problem is examined for an inviscid incompressible fluid on a plane beach using a linearized but non-hydrostatic theory. Solutions are obtained in integral form and the computed and studied using asymptotic representations for small and large times. An extension of the theory is made to allow the examination of forced motions due to a fluctuating surface pressure, or movements of the solid bed. One of the main observations is that, in general, such disturbances will lead to unbounded wave heights for large time in the case when the longshore wavelength equals the wavelength of Ursell edge-wave mode.

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Cited in

(6)

• Inclined wavemaker in linear water wave theory.
• A study of the waves and boundary layers due to a surface pressure on a uniform stream of a slightly viscous liquid of finite depth
• The effect of pumping and ripples on the classical 2-D plane beach problem
• Far Field Asymptotics of the Two-Dimensional Linearised Sloping Beach Problem
• A model of water wave ‘horse-shoe’ patterns
• Water waves generated by instantaneous disturbances at the bed of a sloping beach

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