Whitecapping

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The purpose of this paper is to give a short introduction to the theory of whitecapping, or the theory of wavebreaking in deep oceans. The waveaction density \(n_k\) can be expressed in terms of a triple sum of a triple integral for \(\omega(\mathbf{k})\) and two delta functions; this is known as the Hasselman equation. The authors discuss several integrals for energies and spectra, which have been experimentally verified. Then the attention is switched to potential incompressible flow governed by the Bernoulli equation. Finally, numerical simulations of Stokes waves are plotted.




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