Finite amplitude water waves above a sloping beach (Q802402)

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Finite amplitude water waves above a sloping beach
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    Finite amplitude water waves above a sloping beach (English)
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    1985
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    A simple explicit analytical solution is found for a wide class of problems involving the determination of the form of finite amplitude water waves above a sloping beach. Specific problems considered include the Cauchy problem in which the initial state is the rest state, and the shore line problem.
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    unsteady two-dimensional flow
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    nonlinear hydraulic equations
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    generalization of Abel's integral equation
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    sloping beach
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    Cauchy problem
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    shore line problem
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